Windows 8 Hot Key [Must Know]

Here are collection of Windows 8 Shortcut key but i often called it HOT KEY or Combo Key Try it your self :)

Press [Windows Key] to enter the tiled Start screen. 

[Windows Key] + M minimizes everything that's showing on the desktop.
[Windows Key] + E opens Explorer for quick access to folders. On the Start screen, press
[Windows Key] + D to instantly get to the desktop.
[Windows Key] + I opens the settings menu, giving you quick access to the Control Panel, Professionalization, and your Power button, among other features.
[Windows Key] + R prompts the Run command useful for quickly launching apps and other routines with a command prompt.
[Windows Key] + Print Screen takes a screenshot and saves it in a Screenshots folder nested in your Pictures folder. To take a screenshot on a Windows 8 tablet, simultaneously press the Windows button and the volume-down button on the tablet chassis.
[Windows Key] + Q opens a global search menu. Type what you're looking for and where you would like to look.
[Windows Key] + Tab opens a list of currently running programs.
[Windows Key] + O locks orientation on devices with an accelerometer.
[Windows Key] + F opens a file and folder search.
[Windows Key] + Pause opens the system properties page to show you a quick rundown of your specs. [Windows Key] + "," (that's the comma sign!) makes all current windows transparent, giving you a peek at the desktop as long as you hold down [Windows Key].

[Windows Key] + "." (the period) snaps a window to the right or left side (toggling each time you press ".").
[Windows Key] + W opens a search in your system settings to quickly locate and change system properties.
[Windows Key] + X opens the Quick Access Menu, exposing system functionality such as the Command Prompt, Disk Management, File Explorer, Run, and more. It's perfect for people who Start Menu. Alternately, you can right-click on the bottom right corner of the screen to spawn the Quick Access Menu.

Stress Test Software for PC: Top Choices

Overclockers from around the world compete to get the highest MHz values and fastest components that they can. And how they compare those results? They do lots of benchmarks and show off with the highest scores possible, but these tests are not only to rate a component, they are also used to determine stability. After any overclock, it’s best that you do one of these stability tests to ensure that your computer is ok and that it is working good. Testing for errors is crucial, and with these programs you will be able to test your computer also.

Why do we use stress tests and how they work

As we’ve mentioned before, these programs test your computer’s stability and give it a rating. They do this by taking a certain component to the maximum of its capabilities and checking if there is any problem with it. The information that is gathered by the program will be used sometimes to generate graphs and let you see how your computer works over time. They use the computer’s own sensors to read information on its temperature, and how well it fares with the settings that it has. If there is a problem, the test is interrupted either by the benchmarking tool, or by the computer (blue screen). Also, these programs check the data when available (read, write speeds or other information) and users can check these to see if there is an improvement or to see if there is something wrong.

WHAT CAN YOU TEST?

The data collected depends on each program, most of them only test one component, so for hard drive,s you will have read and write speeds, bad sectors (if any) and temperature. For a GPU (video card), the program will look at the frame rate (FPS- frames per second) and give you your maximum FPS, minimum FPS and average FPS and also the temperature of the card. When testing CPUs, the result will most likely be in OPS (operations per second), power drain, temperature and overall stability.

There are other programs that monitor the computer’s PSU (power supply unit) and these will give the user information for each rail (current, voltage or power). In some cases, the program will generate a graph, showing the user the different drops in power that each rail might have. Also, memory testers a good way to see how your RAM is holding out, giving you read/write data, access times, latency and voltage measures.  

The best stress test software for you

GPU

Probably the biggest number of benchmark tools are for video cards. These programs can render an image that will utilize your video card to the maximum, carefully logging every change in temperature and in FPS. Users who want to test their video cards can try some of these programs:

• FurMark 
• MSI Kombustor (MSI Afterburner Tool) 
• Fraps 
• Heaven Benchmark 
• 3DMark 
• Crysis Benchmark Tool 

 
CPU

These programs use your processor at 100% of its capacity and calculate how many operations it can do, what temperature it has and how stable is the overclock. Testing out your CPU after every OC (overclocking) is necessary to ensure that it works properly. Here are a few benchmarks to get you going:

• SuperPI 
• Sisoft Sandra 
• CPU Burn-in 
• Prime95 

RAM

Usually, memory scanners come as a package with other scanners, and so, there are not many stand-alone RAM benchmark tools, but this one would do fine for most. It will check the latency of the memory and the speeds at which it writes and reads.

• - MaxxMEM 

 
FULL SCANNERS

These programs are not like the ones before, they have numerous tools and they can test almost all the components on your computer. If you want an overall performance scan and stress test, then these should do fine.

•  OCCT 
•  PassMark Suite 
•  PCMark 
•  NovaBench 
•  AIDA64 

 
Keep in mind while benchmarking

Of course, these are not all the benchmarking tools available, but they should cover pretty much any benchmarking need. Keep in mind that benchmarks are dangerous and the stress they put on the components can lead to malfunctions and even render them unusable. Also, when benchmarking, close all other programs that are running, except the test software, in this way you will get accurate data.

Very important is to closely monitor the temperatures of your computer while testing, do the tests at room temperature for accurate data, or if you are gunning for the highest score, do them at a lower temperature. Use tools like Core Temp to monitor the values of the temperature and unless there is a problem, do not interrupt the test. It is also a good idea to keep an eye on your PSU while testing, if the computer is overclocked, while the test is running, the PSU will be at a much higher load.

How to Downgrade Windows 8 to Windows 7

Windows 8 is up and running. It has lots and lots of new features, new user interface and an overall new feel. If you think “Well, this is awesome and I like Windows 8”, then the following tutorial won’t be of much help to you. On the other hand, if you think that Microsoft’s “new and improved” operating system is not the one for you (and I can honestly understand why not), then you might want to go back to Windows 7 (or Vista, which is a bad idea). Recently, this became a problem for those who have bought computers or laptops produced by HP that came with the Windows 8 OEM installed. At that time, HP declared that they will not offer support for anyone who will downgrade to Windows 7 from Windows 8, thus creating quite a stir among the owners of HP computers. Much to their relief, HP has updated their policy and now users can downgrade to Windows 7 without voiding their warranty. Maybe other OEMs will follow HP’s example.

Downgrading from Windows 8 to Windows 7 Microsoft allows users who own a copy of Windows 8 Pro to downgrade to an older version of Windows, be it 7 or Vista (downgrade to XP is not supported), as they had done with previous versions of Windows, as we can see from the Windows 8 license agreement:

Instead of using the Windows 8 Pro software, you may use one of the following earlier versions: Windows 7 Professional or Windows Vista Business.

Now that you have caught your breath knowing that you have the possibility to downgrade, let’s move on to the next step: how to downgrade to Windows 7 from Windows 8?

There is no easy way to do this, because Microsoft does not provide such a tool in any of their operating systems. Also, I have consulted with the Microsoft website and there is no information available on how to downgrade your Windows operating system. This means that only those who have OEM licenses of Windows 8 can downgrade to Windows 7, but the downgrade must be done by the computer manufacturer. If you only bought a retail version of Windows 8, you are left with one option: buy a copy of Windows 7 (if you do not have one yet) and install it on your computer.

INSTALLING WINDOWS 7 OVER WINDOWS 8

If you are installing a new OS on your device, there are a few steps you must undergo before starting. First of all, determine if there is any information on your C: partition that you want to keep. If so, copy it on your other partitions/cloud service/external drive. Also, just to be safe, you can make a disk image of your C: drive as a backup, just in case you will encounter errors and need to revert to Windows 8. After saving all your files, you can continue by making a boot-able drive with Windows 7. For this, you will need the .ISO image file of Windows 7 and a DVD or USB flash drive (the flash drive must have at least 8GB ).

- Creating a boot-able DVD

If you want to create a DVD with Windows 7, you will need to install a program called Nero. This is allow you to create a boot-able DVD very quickly with next to no effort. After installing Nero, stick in your blank DVD and in the Nero main screen select “DVD” and “Open”, now you have to browse for your .ISO file. After opening the file, click on “Burn” and wait for the burning process to complete.

-Creating a boot-able USB Flash Drive

If you will be installing Windows 7 from a USB flash drive, you will notice that there are lots of utilities around the web that allow you to accomplish this, but from personal experience, I would recommend doing this the old fashioned way, with Command Prompt. Also, remember that you will need a USB flash drive that has 8GB or more, and before you start, copy all your files from the flash drive, because this process will erase all the data from the USB flash drive. This is how to do it: 

Search for “CMD” and run it as administrator (it is crucial that you run it this way, otherwise it will give you an error later on) After the command prompt window opens, type “DISKPART” and enter the following commands in this order:

1. “LIST DISK”
2. A list will appear with all the disks on your computer. See which of them is the USB drive (look at the size of the disk to determine which one it is). If you have only one hard drive on your computer, the USB stick will usually be Disk 1 (we will take this case as an example)
3. “SELECT DISK 1” (again, be sure that you have the same number for your USB flash drive)
4. “CLEAN”
5. “CREATE PARTITION PRIMARY”
6. “SELECT PARTITION 1”
7. “ACTIVE”
8. “FORMAT FS=NTFS” and wait for the format to complete (it takes about 10 minutes on a 8GB flash drive)
9. “ASSIGN”
10. “EXIT” – this will exit the “diskpart” utility, but the command prompt will still remain opened. Do not close it because you will use it later on. Now your USB flash drive is seen as a partition, this will allow you to create the boot drive for the Windows 7 operating system also, mount your .ISO image to a virtual drive.
11. “D: CD BOOT” (where “D” is the drive letter of your virtual drive where your .ISO file with Windows 7 is mounted)
12. “CD BOOT”
13. “BOOTSECT.EXE /NT60 X:” (where “X” is the letter of your USB flash drive)

Copy all the files from the .ISO file to your USB flash drive and after the process is completed, you are done. Now, with your copy of Windows 7 ready to go, you can perform the normal installation. Select your USB drive as the boot source and install the operating system. It is quite a shame that Microsoft does not implement a feature that allows users to downgrade automatically to an older version of Windows. Especially now, when Windows 8 is so different from the older versions and it might not be to the liking of everyone.

Use RecImg to Backup and Restore in Windows 8

Internet poses many dangers, and some of them affect us more than we’d like. For instance, when you browse the Internet and run into a virus or malware that your antivirus program cannot block. In this scenario, your computer’s security can be compromised and in some cases, your operating system will start encountering errors that will render it useless. What to do in such cases? Well, the only viable solution (apart from re-installing the OS) is to restore your computer to an earlier state, when it wasn’t compromised. Sounds pretty simple, right? Well, the problem with this is that most of us forget to backup our system, or even choose not to. After all, the recovery image occupies quite a lot of space and the process is very time consuming and laborious.

Introducing RecImg – The perfect tool to manage your backups

One major disadvantage of the backup process is that it only saves a snapshot of your system, and if your personal data is changed or if you install new programs, when you restore that image, all the information gathered between the time of the backup and the time of the restore is gone. Also, the process itself of backing up is at some times laborious, and you have to spend quite some time to accomplish it. There has to be a better way to do this, right?

And it is! The program that allows you to backup your entire system in 3-4 clicks is called RecImg. This utility was developed for Windows 8 and it can make a backup of your entire drive, with all your user information and installed programs almost automatically. All you have to do is select what drive you want to backup and where you want to store the backup image and you are all done. From here on, the process is completely automated.

But wait, I haven’t got to the best part yet: RecImg Backup Manager also adds user information to your recovery as you modify files and install programs, so you know that your information is safe at all times. After creating the update schedule, you can rest assured that the system will be backed up regularly and you are not at risk of losing information.

If a time does come when you will need to revert to an older state of your drive, due to a system error or infected files, you have only to select your backup image and let the program do it’s job. Some might argue that Windows 8 already has Refresh and Restore options, but these features delete files or settings, and you are still left with a lot of work to do, making your operating system the way it was. This issue can be overcome by using RecImg.

Keep in mind that the image file is pretty big (depending on the amount of data you have stored on your computer), so the process could take a few minutes. My recovery took about 45 minutes to complete and the total image file had 15 GB. But you can let the program run in background and get on with your work. I can attest to the fact that I didn’t even notice a drop in computer performance while the backup process was active.

BOTTOM LINE

So, is this program worth installing? Definitely! It has major advantages over the Windows native backup and other backup software:

1. Fast Backup and Restore (depends on the number of apps installed)
2. Automated backup
3. Keeps files and information updated
4. Low resource footprint
5. Very simple to use

All these aspects make RecImg the perfect backup utility for Windows 8 users. It’s great interface is very easily navigated on touchscreen devices, so it integrates perfectly with the overall look of Windows 8. I hope that we will soon see an update that will let us backup our files to the cloud, because there are lots of websites that offer online space and are perfect for keeping a backup image.

Windows 8 Security Breach: Password Protection Can be Bypassed

Although Microsoft have tried to create a version of Windows that is more secure than its predecessors, the new OS, Windows 8, still falls short of this commitment, being vulnerable to the same hack that the older versions were. Although the system has improved, for some users, it still remains a possible security breach. It would seem that Microsoft wants to improve the security of its OS, but they still don’t resolve the older issues. This is also the case of the Internet Explorer vulnerability that we’ve talked about recently, in which mouse movements could be tracked with a javascript exploit.

Note: We realize the potential risk behind this method and the reason why we’re writing about this is only to inform users about this vulnerability. This method can prove to be very useful for those who have really forgot their passwords but also by hackers. Therefore, we hope that the Redmond guys will take some measures about this.

HOW TO BYPASS WINDOWS 8 PASSWORD PROTECTION

In older versions of Windows, you could replace the password to any account fairly easy, with a recovery disk and a few commands in CMD. Microsoft have tried to resolve this issue, and have succeeded, but only half way. By default, Windows 8 users are logged in to their online Microsoft accounts, in which case, they are pretty secure, but if someone who uses computer running Windows 8 on a local account, they are still vulnerable. Their passwords can still be changed with ease.

Although we do not encourage accessing another computer without permissions, sometimes, there is need for this measure when someone forgets their password and the computer is rendered inaccessible. This step by step guide will show you how to change a Windows 8 user account password in only a few minutes, without the need of any hacking experience. For this, you will need a recovery disk, which can be created either on a CD/DVD or on a USB flash drive.

1. Insert your USB flash drive in a Windows 8 computer

2. Navigate to Control Panel -> Recovery

3. Select “Create a recovery drive” and follow the wizard to create the recovery drive

After the USB drive is complete, insert it into the computer that you want to access, restart the computer and enter Boot Menu. Note: To enter the Boot Menu requires you to press a key right when the computer starts, usually this key is “F8”, but this is not true for every computer. Look it up on the Internet or watch when the computer starts, it will show you what key it is.

Boot from your USB drive, and when it starts, select the language of your choice and head over to “Troubleshoot” -> “Advanced Options” -> “Command Prompt”. This will open a CMD window, where you will type a few command lines. When the CMD window opens, write these commands:

- diskpart
- list vol

Note: Be careful what volume you select, it should be the letter corresponding to your Windows partition. Usually the letter is “C”, but in some cases, it might differ. - exit Note: For this tutorial, we will assume that your Windows installation partition corresponds to the letter C. Also, be careful at the spaces in the command lines, you have to write them exactly as featured here.

- C:
- CD WINDOWS
- CD SYSTEM32
- COPY CMD.EXE CMD.EXE.ORIGINAL
- COPY UTILMAN.EXE UTILMAN.EXE.ORIGINAL
- DEL UTILMAN.EXE - REN CMD.EXE UTILMAN.EXE
- SHUTDOWN -R -T 00

Now the system is ready to have its password overridden. Your computer will restart, let it boot normally and when it reaches the logon screen, click on the “Ease of Access Center” in the bottom left corner of the screen and a command prompt should open. In this CMD window, type the following:

- NET USER
- NET USER username *

Now you will be prompted to input the new password for the account. Notice that the password will not show and the cursor will not move, so be extra careful when typing it, because you are typing blind. After you confirm the password, the process is complete. You can close the CMD and log on to the computer using the new password you have just provided.

Note: For the second NET USER username * command, replace username with your own account name that is shown after the first command and the “*” will have to be typed after the username, with a space between them.

The process is very simple and can be done by anyone. Also, if you want to revert the effect of this process (the deleted files in the first part of the tutorial), you can do this by re-inserting and booting from your USB drive, open the CMD windows in the same manner as before and type the following commands in the CMD window:

- C:
- CD WINDOWS
- CD SYSTEM32
- DEL UTILMAN.EXE
- REN UTILMAN.EXE.ORIGINAL UTILMAN.EXE
- REN CMD.EXE.ORIGINAL CMD.EXE
- SHUTDOWN -R -T 00

When you computer boots up, you will notice that by clicking on the “Ease of Access Center”, it will no longer open a CMD window, but it will have changed to the default setting.

Note: For those who have a Windows 8 installation DVD, you can do this without a recovery disk. Boot your Windows 8 DVD and when reaching the first start screen (where you select the language of the installer), hold “Shift”+”F10” keys together and a CMD will open. In this scenario, continue only from the “diskpart” command.

This is how it was done in the previous versions on Windows, and this also works on Windows 8, but only on local accounts. If your targeted account uses the Microsoft online logon, this method will not work. Again, we strongly suggest that you do not use this method unauthorized!

 
PHOTO CREDITS: REBOOT.PRO

Top 10 Gaming Laptops you Would Love to Buy Right Now!

With gadgets & technology becoming the epicenter of our lives, the fact that gadgets are an extension of who you are, cannot hold truer. So, whether you are the ‘no-frills’ simpleton, happy to have a hardware that you can rely on or the die-hard gamer, who lives for the experience or simply want the best of all worlds, there is a Windows 7 powered machine made just for you!

We are raising the hotness meter for gadgets this season with a whole slew of brand new laptops & netbooks that come powered with Windows 7, Microsoft’s latest operating system that quite simply takes the PC to a brand new high. Windows 7 comes with so many rich features and short-cuts that make everyday tasks on the PC much easier, more secure, hugely simpler and lots more fun. What’s more, these Windows 7 PCs are stylish & chic to choose from and definitely add that extra zing to your computing experience. So, whatever your personality type, Windows 7 with its amazing new features lets you be you.

 Your ULTIMATE Windows 7 Gaming Laptop

It’s all about the experience Dude! All about the moves – a jump here, a kick there and a Wham!! That’s right. If gaming is your passion & you can vouch for having all the latest games in your lappy & can defeat anyone hands down, you shouldn’t be wasting your day playin’ games on a simple machine? Don’t let your ‘typical PC’ mess up your game, upgrade now to a gaming laptop that will let the gaming fanatic in you enjoy the experience to the hilt anytime, anywhere. Here are some killer Windows 7 devices made specifically for the gamer in you.

1. Dell Alienware M17x

Gaming Enthusiasts would love to have this baby in their hands. Quoted as the most powerful 17-inch gaming notebook in the universe, the Windows 7 powered machine delivers a pulse-pounding, life-like experience. This dream machine is loaded with the fastest hardware you can put in a notebook today, including two of Nvidia’s GeForce GTX 280M graphics cards and a 2.53-GHz Intel Core 2 Extreme Quad QX9300 CPU. Available in three cool colors – matte Space Black, Lunar Silver and Nebular Red ; Alienware M17x gives an excellent performance customized for a superb gaming experience.

Price: INR 1,20,990 | USD 2150 (Amazon)
 2. Asus G51JX

Asus G51JX is part of Asus’s Republic of Gamers (RoG) range; the machine is a gamer’s delight offering stutter-free visuals and sizzling performance that take gaming to the next level of realism. The machine also has a 4GB of DDR3 1066MHz RAM, 64-bit version of Windows 7 Home Premium, two 320GB 7200rpm hard drives and the main ingredient, a Nvidia GTX 260M with 1GB DDR3 RAM. To ensure you get the complete experience, Asus has squeezed in a Creative Audigy HD plug-in that has support for EAX Advanced HD 4.0 to power the Altec Lansing speakers so you don’t miss a sound.



Price: Rs. 1,08,623 | $ 1400 (Amazon)

 3. Sony Vaio VPCF117HG/BI

Sony Vaio VPCF117HG/BI is powerful gaming and multimedia laptop powered by Windows 7 with Intel Core i7 Quad Core Processor and dedicated 1GB Nvidia Geforce graphics card. Its full HD display will let you enjoy your games at their best & will also let you enjoy the beauty of HD video and photos with Adobe RGB 100% coverage. The classy top panel features a two-layer finish with pearl black covered by a clear layer.











Price: Rs. 1,29,900 | $ 1799 (Amazon)



No Frills Gaming Laptops

If you are looking for a device that’s ‘uncomplicated’ but efficient, ‘simple’ but gives a powerful computing experience, nothing too “heavy”, then be assured that you have come to the right place. Windows 7 lets you choose from a range of laptops that are no-frill but efficient. So, you might not be able to show off the laptop to the ladies or anything, but it will get the job done for you!

4. Compaq Presario CQ42-115TU
The new Compaq Presario CQ42-115TU, powered by Windows 7, has been built for those who want everyday computing at a great value. It strikes a perfect balance between mobility and performance by meeting your basic computing needs and fitting in any environment. The 14.1-inch display laptop runs on the Intel Dual Core processor and has a hard drive of 320 GB Serial ATA.

Price: Rs. 32,810

5. Acer Aspire 5740

The Acer Aspire 5740 is highly recommended for a budget conscious buyer interested in having a fully-functional 15-inch laptop for work or for play. The Windows 7 powered machine has some noteworthy features including a full-sized keyboard, and improved onboard graphics performance. It feels fast enough for all common productivity applications. So, you can listen to your favorite music online or offline on the Dolby optimized surround sound system, keep in touch with your work and family contacts while on the move.

Price: Rs. 36,945 | $598 (Amazon)

6. HCL ME AE1V0684-X
If you want an uncomplicated performance oriented device then this machine is for you. HCL ME AE1V0684-X focuses on performance and key features like ‘Data Recovery’, ‘Sharing a very large file with ease’, ‘Data saving by Locking’ and ‘Special protection towards Phishing attacks’. It’s powered by Windows 7 and has an Intel Pentium Dual Core Processor T 4300 (2.1GHz) and provides a Wireless Broadband experience through Intel WLAN 5100AGN.

Price: Rs. 33,840


For the Guy who ‘Wants It All’ Gaming, multimedia entertainment, work and pleasure; you want it all from your device? If yes, then Windows 7 gives you some really cool options to chose from which will not only give you a powerful computing experience but will also let you win brownie points with the fairer sex. Here’s a selection of the top Windows 7 PCs that are sure to make heads turn.

7. Sony Vaio VPCZ117GG/X

The Sony VAIO VPCZ117GG/X is one smooth operator, like you, with its sleek design and outstanding performance. The Windows 7 powered laptop comes packed with Intel’s latest Core i7 processor and boasts high-performance specifications like a two graphics accelerators and a quad solid state drive for truly out-of-the-world data transfer speeds. So, it’s not only big on looks but on performance as well. Why wait!! Get this killer machine to burn up your style quotient with the chics.





Price: Rs. 1,59,900 | $1899 (Sony)

8. HP Pavilion dv6-2164TX
HP Pavilion dv6-2164TX has all the features you would want on your laptop & more. With this Windows 7 powered laptop you can configure dedicated graphics card, load multiple web pages and stream videos, all without slowing the hard drive. It gives you great convenience of wireless mobility with great style and durability. It lets you enjoy the best entertainment and productivity experience.




Price: Rs. 65,702 | $1125 (Amazon)



9. Dell Studio 15

Dell Studio 15, powered by Windows 7, is a great Multimedia Laptop meant for both work & play. It has some good features & comes with a 2 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Processor with 3 GB RAM and 250 GB HDD. You can easily multi task with this device, watch a movie while downloading video clips and encode a video in background or simply run Photoshop CS3 at the time of video encoding. What’s more you have some really cool colors to opt out from. So, this season sync your personal style with the new Dell Studio 15 laptop which comes in seven colors – plum purple, tangerine orange, flamingo pink, midnight blue, ruby red, spring green and jet black. What are you waiting for? Pick your favorite today!
Price: Rs. 45,300 | $ 1039 (Amazon)

10. To be decided by readers Editor’s Note: This article is sourced from Microsoft Consumer & Online. It is basically aimed at Indian consumers. Feel free to add your favorite gaming laptop.

How to Choose a PC Motherboard

If the CPU of a PC is the brain and the case is its backbone, the motherboard is truly a computer’s soul. It binds all the components and it makes your computer run and because it’s so important in a PC, you must pay a great deal of attention when buying one. Furthermore, the motherboard that you buy when you build your PC will determine how many upgrades you can make in the future.

There are many types of motherboards out there, with lots of features and different technologies, but in the end, it boils down to one question: Intel or AMD? I will not discuss in this article which of the two is better, this decision lies with each user, but I’ll rather try to explain as best I can how to choose a motherboard for your build.

What aspects to consider when buying motherboard

 SIZE

Size is determined first and foremost on the type of case you choose. If your computer’s case supports large motherboards, then this won’t be an issue. Also, another aspect to consider when you choose a certain size for your motherboard is the type of computer you will build.

EXPANSION SLOTS

For low end computers, where graphics rendering is not something you need, a motherboard with integrated graphics is something you might want, but if you are building a gaming rig or a workstation, you might need something that offers support for multiple GPUs (more than one PCI Express slot and SLI or CrossfireX ready).

CONNECTIVITY

In short, how many devices can you connect to your motherboard. Such devices connect via SATA Interface (HDD, SSD, Optical Drive) and now the standard for these devices is SATA III. Also, USB 3.0 is something to look forward to on a motherboard. Other connectors include FireWire, E-SATA or HDMI (for integrated graphics).

HARDWARE COMPATIBILITY

This refers to what types of components you can mount on your motherboard. This is similar with the connectivity but it refers to the CPU, video card or DDR memory you can mount. For the CPU, after you decide on which family to go with (Intel or AMD), you must determine what socket you will use. I recommend using the latest socket available because it gives you the possibility to upgrade. For the GPU, you must determine if you will use multiple GPU arrays, if not, you will probably not need more than 1 (or two at the most) PCI Express 16x slots. The latest technology for video card compatibility is PCI Express 3.0, but this technology works with the new Intel Processors (Ivy Bridge). For the DDR memory, the choice is clear:

DDR3. This is the latest technology available and it offers the best performance. Look for something that allows you later add RAM memory to your computer, so something with 4 RAM slots would be a must and it must allow at least 16 GB of total memory, for later upgrades. Also, look at the specifications for the DDR memory and orient yourself for something that allows bigger frequencies (up to 2133 MHz).

 






OTHER FEATURES

Nowadays, in high end motherboards, you might see some extra features, like power and reset button mounted directly on the motherboard. Also, for fans of overclocking, you might want a button that will boost your system at once, a feature implemented in ASUS – ROG motherboards. Other features might include bigger heatsinks for the chipset and chips of the motherboard. Integrated high fidelity audio and gigabit LAN is something to look forward to, or Bluetooth and Wi-Fi capability.

Although we have gone with the 3 categories until now, when it comes to the motherboard, I would recommend to buy one that offers you the possibility to upgrade the components in time without changing it. So, try to find something that gives you all the new technologies and lots of connectivity options.

How to Choose the Video Card for Your PC

Although we have covered this area in the past (remember the tutorial on how to buy a video card?), we thought that a little update on the subject could not hurt. Video card technology is rising quickly, and GPUs are getting better and better with each passing month. Because of this rapid advancement in technology, the average user gets sometimes confused when buying such a device. Also, the manufacturers of video cards give them names and specs that are complete gibberish for most. For example, in a video card, unlike what you see in a CPU, you have not one, but three clock values (the ones measured in MHz and GHz) and other specs that don’t make any sense. What is important to know, is that these specs can be very misleading, and if you go for the biggest numbers, you might end up with a video card that is not as good as others in the same price range.

Bigger numbers – more power?

 Not quite true. Although the bigger numbers mean something, sometimes you pay for those numbers and you do not get anything in return. For example, a video card with 4 GB of VRAM (this is the video memory) can have the same performance as one with 1.5 or 2 GB of VRAM memory. Why? Because that memory is not directly proportionated to the amount of power a video card has, but that is the “pipeline” the video signal travels from the GPU to the monitor. Bottom line is that the video resolution of your screen is the one which determines what video card you need. For bigger screens and resolutions, the video card needs more power, for smaller screens, less.

 Also, if you buy a video card, you need to think at what you are going to use it? Are you a casual gamer who plays indie games, a hardcore gamer or you want to see movies on a big HD screen? For each type of load, there are lots of video cards that can do just fine, but if you need only a small amount of GPU acceleration for a HD movie, it would be a waste of money to buy a top of the line video card, the same is true, if you play just a few, non-demanding games, you will not need a high end video card. Also, for graphics rendering and video editing, you might need specialized video cards, like the nVidia Quadro video cards, specially designed for these tasks, but not not good in gaming or others tasks.

 nVidia or ATI?

 As in the case of Intel vs. AMD, this aspect is not as important as in the past. Although they both have different approaches when it comes to GPUs, at the end of the day both nVidia and ATI make really good video cards. ATI gives its video cards lots of memory, up to 4GB in some cases, and this seems to work (looks like AMD, the owner of ATI does the same thing with its CPUs), but nVidia, like Intel, gives its video cards the very latest technologies and lots of raw power. Nowadays, the difference in performance, especially in gaming is not that much and so, what it boils down to is: what do each of us prefer? I myself am a nVidia fan.


 DO YOUR RESEARCH

The first step in buying a video card is to know what you will use it for, then consider your monitor, what resolution it has, how big it is, or if you have an array of multiple monitors, what is their total resolution. Then look at your motherboard to see what type of video card slot do you have. After this, when you know all of these things, go look for the video card that matches all your criteria, do not pay too much attention at the other specs until you find a few video cards that work with what you have. After this, search the web for benchmark results, reviews, and scores on those video cards. See what the experts say and from there, make your choice. There are lots of such websites, that offer great information about video cards and other components. A good example of such a website is Tom’s Hardware and also, communities of tech lovers and overclockers (like overclock.net or hwbot.org) are a great source of information.

 BRANDED OR UNBRANDED?

If you ever gone browsing a store for video cards, you saw that the same product is offered by multiple companies. So you might see a nVidia GTX 680 that has the ASUS logo on it, or the Gigabyte or EVGA. Those companies buy unbranded video cards from the nVidia factory and then, re-engineer them for better performance. Sometimes they change the entire PCB, only keeping the GPU itself. Also, they add custom cooling systems, making those video cards much better than when they left the factory.

TOP VIDEO CARDS AT THE MOMENT

Because personal preference would stand in the way of making an accurate top, we decided to let the numbers speak. The overall performance of the video cards, tested on the same system and in all the same conditions paint a vivid picture of the performance each of them pack. Also, because technologies differ from nVidia cards to ATI cards, putting them head to head is the only way to truly find out what potential each of them has. In the fallowing charts, you can clearly see the difference in FPS (frames per second) and temperature of the video cards while running the same games and benchmark (Shotgun 2, Dirt 3 and Heaven 2.5 benchmark).

Test 1 – HD performance and maximum temperature

Test 2 – DirectX 11 gaming performance with and without tessellation active

Although a video card might prove to be the most expensive component in your PC, it is one of the most important. But technology seems to go in the direction of simplifying our choices. New models of CPUs from both Intel and AMD have integrated video processors, true, they are vastly inferior to video cards, but in the future, we might see them as one chip. Until then, remember that choosing your video card has as much to do with specs as with the environment it will operate in (I dare to say that the environment is more important): the case, the motherboard and the screen.

 PHOTO CREDITS: TECHRADAR

How to Buy a Video Card

The graphics card of a PC is its heart. Without it, a PC is useless. In a sense, it makes it visible. But graphics cards are always on the move. A few months passing before a new model or series comes along. And if today’s top video card is wanted by many, in two years it will be a mid-level card, offering satisfying performance for those who don’t play demanding games or render graphics. And because it’s a market on the continuous move, there is always need for a new one. Video Card Buying Guide But buying a new Graphics Card (or Video Card) can prove to be a daunting task. If you ever searched the market, then you know what it is I’m talking about: alphanumeric names that don’t make sense to anyone except the techno savvy and the enthusiasts. Specs that blow you away and keep on going page after page

In this tutorial I’ll try to give all this gibberish some sense, and give you a helping hand when buying a video card. To choose the best one that suits your needs without burning a hole in your pocket (and we all know how expensive these babies can get). First of all, you must understand that those numbers don’t fully reflect the potential of a video card, so don’t get impressed by the fancy names you might see.

VIDEO MEMORY DOESN’T MEAN PERFORMANCE

A very important aspect that you need to know is that memory is not everything! Video card manufacturers expect consumers to buy the video cards that have the biggest memory, so you will see some video cards that go up to 4 GB RAM. However, it is important not to have too little memory, but everything in the range of 1GB of GDDR5 memory is more than enough. Be careful also to the type of memory: GDDR2, GDDR3 or GDDR5. GDDR5 is the best out there, so look for a video card that has this type of memory. The GPU (graphics processing unit) is probably the most important part of the video card. So when buying a new video card look towards a new processor, something from the latest technology. This will ensure you that your card will work great for at least two years.

DIRECTX VERSION – CARTOONS OR REALISM?

The DirectX driver is another important aspect, look for cards that offer support for the latest DX version (now it’s DirectX 11), anything lower than that will render your graphics at lower quality and realism. Bandwidth is again an important aspect. Measured in Gb/s, look for something that has as much as possible. So the bigger the bandwidth, the better. Also, tightly bound with this is the pixel fill ratio and texture fill rate. These values also have to be as big as possible. Keep an eye out for compatibility, so look at your motherboard and see what PCI Express slot you have and get your video card accordingly. There are PCI Express 2.0, 2.1 or 3.0 nowadays. Older AGP slots are rarely found and the technology has been abandoned.


INTEGRATED OR DEDICATED VIDEO?

Some might argue that processors such as the new Intel Ivy Bridge, the Sandy Bridge or the AMD Fusion now have integrated graphics and therefore, there is no need for aftermarket video cards. But these integrated chips do not offer the performance that dedicated video cards, not by a long shot.These are not developed for gaming purposes or for rendering, and so, they are not a substitute for a proper video card.
 
 What Video Card Do I Need?

After understanding all the things you will see when browsing for a video card, the next step is to figure out the purpose of your video card. If you are looking for something that will give you performance in gaming, then there are lots of cards with excellent specs. These are not cheap, for that extra performance you will have to pay a few $$. A decent card will start at the $200 mark and it can go up to $1000+ for those who are really enthusiasts. Also, multiple card setups are good. B oth ATI and nVidia offer these solutions: ATI calls it CrossfireX and nVidia calls it SLI. These technologies allow you to pair up two or more identical video cards for a boost in performance. But keep in mind that they have to be identical for it to work. For rendering big amounts of graphics you might need more than these cards can offer. nVidia has the Quadro series dedicated to rendering, so look for those if you are into rendering. For other purposes, like internet browsing and multimedia, lower end cards or even newer models of integrated chips will get the job done. Budget for a Graphics Card

But remember to keep an eye out for budget. Try to find the perfect balance between how much performance you need and how far are you willing to go for that performance. After you figure these out, you will be in front of the task of choosing the model. There are hundreds if not thousands of video card models out there, so choose wisely. To help you make the best choice, refer to your best friend: the Internet. Search for benchmark results on different games or dedicated softwares such as 3DMark or Heaven Benchmark and see which are the best video cards. When you find a few models that suit your needs, then go and read reviews on them. Look at tests on YouTube. These tests and reviews will help you choose the best video card for you.

Same Performance, Different Brand!

 If you are wondering what manufacturer to go with, know this: the different names you see in the shop (Asus, Gainward, Gigabyte etc) all offer basically the same product. There are minor changes from card to card, except cooling system, OC or different values for frequencies. But, in fact, under the hood, there is a stock ATI (AMD) or nVidia chip. The choice between nVidia and ATI is yours.

Today’s video cards offer almost the same performance. Do not get me wrong, they are not the same, but the level of performance is just about the same. I, myself am an nVidia fan, but there are ATI cards that offer the same performance, and when gaming, the difference between two equal cards, one from ATI and one from nVidia is hardly (if at all) noticeable. So forget about phrases like: “nVidia is the best video card manufacturer!”. It’s simply not true, they both offer great products, almost equally good.

How to Assemble Your PC

Before we start, find all the tools you will need, and keep them close, you will need them in your build. Pick a spot where you wish to do your build (I would recommend using a big table) that has proper lighting. Also, before you touch any component, you need to make sure that your hands are not electrically charged, so touch the ground line from a wall socket and make sure you are not wearing clothes made out of synthetic materials, because these charge very quick. GET YOUR TOOLS IN ORDER Before you begin, bring all the boxes with components near you and your tools. For your build, you will need: 1. Cross screwdriver (a magnetic screwdriver would be preferable) 2. Cable pliers 3. Zip ties 4. Box cutter (or an Exacto knife) 5. Regular pliers (you might not need them, but better have a pair handy) 6. Kittens (if it doesn’t work, you will need them for morale support) Once you check that you have everything at hand, start unboxing the components and their accessories, but remember to keep track of everything and not mix them up. After you have finished with the unboxing process, put the boxes away and you can now start your build. Step by Step guide to assembling your computer

 STEP 1: PREPARE THE CASE

We will start our build with the case. By preparing the case, what I mean is mounting any additional accessories that you might have bought, such as fans, fan grills, dust filters or fan controllers. Also, on the motherboard tray, you will see some tiny holes. Take out your motherboard and see which of them line up with the screw holes in the mobo and then mount the special lifters that come with the case.

After this, run all the wires (the cables from the I/O panel) to the back of the motherboard tray and you are pretty much ready with the case. Also, at the back of the case, you will see the expansion slots. They have tiny covers that are hold into place by screws or clamps. Remove them, as you will have to mount other components here. You can put it aside and continue with the motherboard.






STEP 2: PREPARE THE MOTHERBOARD

Now we start actually putting stuff together. Take out your motherboard and lay it on the table (do not put the motherboard directly on the table, but use a towel or the foam protector that it came with). You will have to remove all the stickers and covers from the slots you will be using and be very careful not to let anything in those slots (like dust or other debris). After doing so, you will move on to mounting some of the components. After removing the plastic cover from the CPU socket (be extra careful not to touch the socket or let anything in it), bring your CPU and mount it according to the little triangle in the corner. You will see some kind of marker on the motherboard that lets you know which way to mount the CPU. DO NOT push it in! If you have aligned it right, it will drop into place perfectly. Now, close the bracket that holds the CPU in place.

STEP 3: APPLYING THERMAL PASTE (OPTIONAL)

Applying thermal compound is optional at this point (assuming you have bought a new CPU cooler, it might have pre-applied thermal paste). Some coolers come with thermal compound already applied, but I would recommend getting some tissue and wiping it off. That stuff is pretty low quality, so you might want to buy a good thermal compound (something like Arctic Silver 5) and apply it to the CPU (do not apply thermal paste to the cooler). There are many ways to do this. I can say that I tried all the methods (one line down the middle of the CPU, a blob in the middle, an “X” pattern on the CPU or to spread it out) and I must say I did not notice a difference in temperature. What I do know, is that the thermal compound layer has to be very thin (just enough to cover the CPU, spread it out as much as you can). So, only apply a very tiny amount and use your prefered method to spread it.


STEP 4: MOUNTING THE CPU COOLER

This depends on what type of cooler you have. Stock coolers usually have plastic push pins, which go in really easy: just line them up with the holes and push them down. But if you purchased an aftermarket CPU cooler, it might have a backplate. In general, order to mount it, first secure the backplate (on the backside of the motherboard with the sticky rubber grommets) and then mount your heatsink. In my case, I did not stick the grommets, and I first mount my cooler and the turn the board over and secure it. What is the most important thing when installing the CPU cooler, is to tighten the screws or pushpins in an diagonal. Do not tighten the screw all the way, just a little bit, the do the same on the other side. After it starts holding, mount the other two screws (the other diagonal) and repeat the process. Tighten the screws from each diagonal just a little at a time and go from on to the other until they are tight (but do not force them, when they do not tighten any more, do not force them). When you are done securing the CPU cooler, connect the power line to the CPU_FAN slot on the motherboard and you are done. A tip here would be to mount the cooler so that the wire exits as close to the power connector from the motherboard as possible, then tie it with a zip tie to give it a clean look.

STEP 5: MOUNTING THE RAM

This step is very easy. If you look closely on the RAM board, you will notice a notch. Also, on the motherboard slot, you will see a pin. Position the RAM board so that the notch will be on the pin. Open the bracket and push the RAM board in. When it enters completely, the bracket will close itself. Be sure to mount the RAM with care, verify that it is inserted evenly and no part of the connector are sticking out. This could damage your RAM board or your motherboard.




STEP 6: MOUNT THE MOTHERBOARD IN THE CASE

Now that you have mounted all your components to the motherboard, you can mount it in the case. Before you do so, however, you must mount the I/O panel on the back of the case. It attaches pretty easy, just put it through the inside of the case and gently push it until you hear the click. Afterwords, mount in your motherboard so the external connectors of the motherboard line up with the I/O panel’s cut-outs (also, recheck the alignment of the lifters in which the screws will enter). After you set it right, secure it with screws and you are done.



STEP 7: ADDING THE OTHER COMPONENTS

After you have installed your motherboard in the case, you can now add the other components: video card, LAN card, audio card and other that you might have purchased. Also, you can now mount the HDD, optical drive and PSU. If you have a modular PSU, mount it without any wires because you will add them later on. In the case of the video card, notice the holding bracket on the PCI Express slot. It is similar to the one on the RAM slot and it works just the same. Pull it back, align your video card and push it into place. The bracket should snap back in place, securing your card. Now you can tighten the other components with the screws that you took out when you prepared the case (the ones from the extension slots). This will ensure that they are locked into place. When you are done, you can put back the other covers of the expansion slots, so you do not have openings between your components. After all is done, route your cables from the PSU out side the case if you have WM holes, if not, pull them outside the case, because you will be adding them one at a time.


STEP 8: MAKING THE CONNECTIONS

Probably the hardest part yet. Making the connections to your PC is something you need to make right, and to do is, you need to figure out what cables you need from your power supply and where they all go. You will most likely start with the 20/24 pin motherboard connection. this is the biggest, most ugly cable that you have. If your case allows you, you can route it along with the others to the back of the motherboard tray. The next one you should connect is your CPU 4/8 pin connector. In my case, this cable had to be routed inside the PC, not under the motherboard, but try to route it as good as possible, without putting tension in it.

After making the motherboard power connections, start adding the other plugs, such as the front I/O panel (power, reset, USB and audio), data and power connections for hard disks and optical drives, video card and power to your vents. A quick tip before you start making your connections, check that all components are installed and before you move on to managing your wires, turn it on to see it everything works (just for a few seconds). If all is good, you can move on with your cable management. Be sure to have all your zip ties and wire pliers near.


STEP 9: FINAL CHECK AND START UP

Once you are done, make a final verification to your system. Check if all the screws are tight and that no cables have been pulled out while you were doing the wire management. If everything looks properly connected and mounted, you should be ready to go. When you turn on your computer, do not put the cover back, but turn it on a do a visual inspection of the system, to see if there are no problems (short circuits, smoke coming out from some place and that everything works). If all is in order, go ahead and mount your side panels, and proceed to installing your OS. Your build is complete!


STEP 10: TROUBLESHOOTING However, most of the times, you might encounter some errors in the system. In my experience, the majority of systems do not boot at first start. Do not startle, this things are common. The biggest problem would be if your PSU doesn’t have the power to run the entire system, in which case, you might have to return it and get a new one. Most of the time, a one or more connections are not made properly or some components are not mounted properly. Check everything again, and you will most likely find the problem. Also, check your BIOS to see if everything shows up and that all the components are running smooth. And that’s a wrap. If you followed the steps properly, by now you should have a working computer, build by you. And I cannot explain the feeling when you turn it on and see that from a pile of components you have build a working computer. It’s like watching a baby be born.